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Tips for growing Original Glue cannabis

(digihelion/iStock)
This article is presented by Advanced Nutrients, a global company raising the bud weights and reputations of cannabis growers since 1999.


Strain overview: Created by cannabis breeder GG Strains, Original Glue is one of the most potent strains on the market today. Coming from Chem’s Sister, Sour Dub, and Chocolate Diesel, this hybrid strain has won multiple Cannabis Cups. With a THC content that regularly hits the 25-30% range, Original Glue’s earthy buds will glow with more trichomes than you’ve likely ever seen. It is a highly coveted strain that has been circulated only as a clone for now, with seeds soon coming from GG Strains directly.

Grow techniques: Original Glue will do wonders with a SCROG (screen of green) style grow as the plants will be fast to fill your garden space, especially if grown hydroponically. Giving all the buds equal chance for full sunlight will guarantee the entire plant reaches its peak potential while supporting its beautiful colas. Because Original Glue came from a hermaphroditic plant, so be aware that pollen sacs can develop from this strain.

Flowering time: 8-9 weeks

Yield: Moderate to high

Grow difficulty: Moderate

Climate: Moderate climates between 68 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep humidity down while flowering to help against mold. Colder temperatures will also increase trichome production towards the end of flowering.

Indoor/outdoor: Original Glue can be grown both indoors and outdoors successfully. Trichomes are naturally water repellent, so this crystallized strain always has a raincoat on while flowering.

Feeding: Try using potassium silicate-rich foods that will help strengthen the plant as these buds develop.

(Advanced Nutrients)

To learn more about feeding with Advanced Nutrients supplements, check out their online nutrient calculator or call their grower support line at 1-800-640-9605.
  • Sam Adams

    These are great articles! I’d like to see more about potential outdoor finish dates for these strains.

    • ZiosDid911

      Depends on your latitude, check the farmers alamnac for a guide to when the days get to 12 hrs or less dayligh to trigger the flowering. This strain they are claiming 8-9 weeks in flower but I have gone 11-10.5 -12 weeks on the last three grows with this strain and that seems to be the norm for many.

      • Sam Adams

        I’m looking for actual natural finish times(dates with latitudes or locations) as experienced by growers. Weeks in flower really only count on a 12/12 regimen indoors or with forcing(tarping, etc), outdoor finish can take longer.

        • ZiosDid911

          I understand that, hence my answer. 12/12 [and less] happens outdoors too unless you’re growing autoflowers. [Smiles] I guess you do not realize that. And weeks in flower matter EXACTLY the same outside as inside too only more so due to possible freezing temps. Not sure what you mean otherwise. They still need the same amount of time to finish it is just that nature decides when that is outside versus when that happens inside with indoor.

          • Sam Adams

            Nope! Outdoor plants start blooming when the light cycle is longer than 12/12! For example here in Southern Oregon, most common varieties of Indicas and Hybrids(basically any photosensitive variety other than tropical sativas) start blooming between August 1 and 15 when the light cycle is around 14 hours long! Many of the earlier varieties are done between Sept 20 and Oct 10, when the light cycle has finally reached around 12 hours long! And, no indoor finish times are only the same outdoors if you are forcing the plants by blocking out light to effect a 12/12 photo-period outdoors. Most varieties growing under the natural light cycle can and do take longer than plants under an artificial indoor light cycle. I’ve been growing outdoor/indoor for a few decades and have a pretty good handle on how photo-periods work, I’d just like to see more first hand information on finish time vs latitude for specific clones/varieties.

          • Robert Childs

            Sam, the longest day of your year (along with everybody else in NAmer) is June 21, the summer solstice. Just saying.

  • Bill Bush

    I live in Michigan where the humidity is hard to keep up in the winter. I say this because this gorilla glue #4 seems to be sensative to dry air. I keep the flower room about 40-60 humidity and mist it twice a day. If I don’t mist it twice a day the leaves start turning yellow. Please share your experience if you’ve grown GG#4 in Michigan.

  • Jonnie Green

    been working with GG4 for a few years and I have not been able to get
    the tops to cluster up nice and fat. However, all the pics I see
    resemble my finish products. Anyone have any tips on getting fatter
    tops? Im full hydro, 6″ cube on top of unislabs. 3 feeds on drip DTW.
    modified lucas formula. 2 DE wings moving on track on galaxy digital
    balast,Sealed room with CO2 set at 1600. 60% until last 2 weeks then
    50%. My best run was scrog but it was a pain in the ass. Last run was
    3oz per plant. about 60″ from base to top (70% popcorn buds). I may try
    misting like bush recommended. Drives me nuts that I can get the long
    fat tops like my other strains.

    • Scott R Burgess

      Have u tried pinching the tops? Backbuilding is a way i have successfully fattened my gg4. Remove the top of bud , just a fraction as it grows around week 7 and continue every few days but only do this when u are happy with size. It will fill the bud out

  • Rick Mosher

    I find keeping the PH between 5.1 and 5.2 in clay balls recirculating DWC of 100 gallons and 12 plants under 3000 watts hps ideal. I know the charts say no but my plants say yes .

  • Danny Babbitt jr.

    Hello everyone, I have a question for you, I need to know if I should be keeping my GG4autos under a MH light to begin with? Or is it ok to keep them under the hps for the entire cycle? Thanks

    • John Soares

      for better buds change to hps..bigger buds and higher production